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Salmon: Even better the second time around

I buy more fresh salmon than I need for dinner. Not because I’m lured by the mammoth slabs sold at warehouse clubs or its, well, salmon color. It’s because salmon’s texture and richness work well oven-roasted or grilled. Those same qualities make the leftovers perfect for a second meal.

I’ve flaked leftover salmon, mixed it with crumbs, seasonings, chopped green onions and egg, then shaped it into patties before pan-frying. Or I toss leftover salmon in a green salad. But when I have a substantial amount of leftover cooked rice, I make my version of the fish-and-rice dish called kedgeree.

Kedgeree (kedge-uh-REE) is a classic English breakfast dish that traces its roots several hundred years back to India’s rice-and-lentil comfort food, khichri. Kedgeree is often made with haddock and topped with hard-cooked eggs, yet every TV celeb cook has a version. There’s Jamie’s (with ginger, garlic, curry powder) and Gordon’s (salmon, quail eggs) – do we really need last names here? – and Delia’s (that’s Smith, TV cookery legend). Although kedgeree is often consumed early in the day, Jamie endorses it as a lunch or light supper dish. I agree.

Kedgeree is a flexible recipe. I’ve not made the dish with haddock. Instead, I usually begin with about 12 ounces of leftover cooked salmon. If you don’t have that, canned salmon (drained, skin and bones removed) works. Serve with a couple of quartered, hard-cooked eggs if you want; I don’t. Out of frozen peas? If you have zucchini, cut some into large dice and stir into the onions just before adding the rice. Spice as you like, with chopped chilies or curry powder. Enjoy.

Quick Kedgeree
with Yogurt Sauce

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: 10 minutes

Makes: 4 servings

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 small yellow onion, finely diced

6 cups leftover cooked rice

12 to 14 ounces cooked salmon, skin removed, flaked, or 1 can (14 ounces) salmon

2 cups frozen peas

1/3 cup good chicken or vegetable broth

3⁄4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup each, chopped: cilantro, parsley

1/3 cup plain Greek yogurt

1 tablespoon each: mayonnaise, lemon juice

1 teaspoon finely minced garlic

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion; cook, stirring, until softened. Add rice; cook, stirring once or twice, 2 minutes. Add flaked salmon, peas, broth, salt and pepper to taste. Cover; heat through over medium heat, stirring occasionally, 5-10 minutes. Stir in the chopped herbs. For the sauce, blend yogurt with mayonnaise, lemon juice and garlic. Serve kedgeree with a dollop of sauce.

Nutrition information (per serving): 625 calories, 18 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 80 g carbohydrates, 33 g protein, 664 mg sodium, 4 g fiber


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